Sumatra, Gayo Mountain – Green Coffee Beans

Description

Gayo Mountain, Cooperative: Permata Gayo

This organic, fair-trade certified coffee originates from the coastal plains of Sumatra’s northernmost province. The mountainous region of Aceh Tengah, historically home to the Gayonese people, provides ideal conditions for coffee cultivation. These favorable growing factors have contributed to the longstanding reputation and distinctive quality of “Gayo Mountain” coffee.

The region of Aceh has faced years of conflict, which led many farmers to abandon their land and seek refuge in nearby Medan. After the devastating 2014 tsunami struck northern Sumatra, peace agreements were established, bringing an end to decades of unrest and enabling many farmers to return to their homeland. In 2006, a group of 50 farmers from five villages in the Bener Meriah district formed the Permata Gayo Cooperative, with the goal of revitalizing their abandoned coffee farms. The cooperative quickly gained traction, achieving organic certification in 2007 and fair trade certification from FLO-Cert in 2009. Over the years, they have centralized the entire coffee production process, from farm to final export, enhancing both quality and traceability from Aceh to the roaster. This approach has allowed the cooperative to share a larger portion of the coffee’s final price with its farmers, supporting their livelihoods and fostering sustainable growth.

Coffee Production in Sumatra

Sumatra, one of Indonesia’s largest and most fertile islands, is renowned for its distinctive coffee, particularly from the regions of Aceh, North Sumatra, and the highlands of Gayo. The island’s unique climate and mountainous terrain, with altitudes ranging from 800 to 1600 meters above sea level, create ideal conditions for growing high-quality arabica coffee. The volcanic soil is rich in nutrients, and the combination of consistent rainfall and cooler temperatures contributes to the development of complex flavors in the beans.

The majority of Sumatra’s coffee is grown by smallholder farmers, often in remote rural areas and in agroforestry systems. These farmers typically cultivate coffee alongside other crops, using traditional farming methods. While larger estates do exist, smallholder farmers control the majority of the coffee production on the island. The two main types of coffee produced are Arabica, which thrives in the highlands, and Robusta, which is more common in lower altitudes.

Harvesting typically occurs between May and October, with cherries being selectively hand-picked. A distinctive feature of Sumatra’s coffee is its wet-hulling (or Giling Basah) processing method. This process involves removing the outer layers of the coffee cherry while the beans are still at a higher moisture content, followed by a partial drying. This technique imparts a unique earthy and full-bodied profile to the coffee, characterized by low acidity, heavy body, and earthy or herbal flavors, often with notes of tobacco, spices, and dark chocolate.

Coffee in Sumatra is mainly exported, and the island plays a critical role in Indonesia’s coffee industry, one of the world’s top producers. The country’s coffee production has faced challenges including fluctuating prices, climate change, and limited access to infrastructure. However, Sumatran coffee continues to be highly regarded in the specialty coffee market for its unique flavor profiles and its association with sustainable, small-scale farming practices. Efforts to improve quality, traceability, and farmer support have been ongoing, with cooperatives and certification programs like Fair Trade and organic certifications helping to support farmers and enhance the overall quality of the coffee. Challenges faced by the coffee sector include inadequate infrastructure, fluctuating market prices, climate variability, and the threat of diseases like coffee leaf rust and root rot.